Glencoe. The very name conjures images of majestic, mist-shrouded mountains, sweeping glens painted in hues of heather and emerald, and a palpable sense of history that permeates the very air. This iconic location in the Scottish Highlands, steeped in both breathtaking beauty and tragic history, beckons travelers from across the globe. For those drawn to its dramatic landscapes and poignant past, careful planning is key to unlocking the full Glencoe experience.
In the realm of Scots Gaelic mythology, Glencoe holds a revered position as the fabled home of the Celtic hero Fingal and his son, Ossian. Their legacy is etched into the landscape with features like Ossian’s Cave, a prominent and striking landmark nestled within Aonach Dubh, also known as The Black Ridge, an integral part of the imposing Glencoe massif, frequently called the Three Sisters. Beyond its mythical connections, Glencoe’s visual splendor has captivated filmmakers, providing a stunning backdrop for iconic movies such as "Skyfall" and segments of the "Harry Potter" film series. However, beneath the surface of its cinematic allure lies a darker chapter in Scottish history: the Glencoe Massacre, which transpired on February 13, 1692. This grim event, a tangled web of clan rivalries and betrayal, remains a somber reminder of the past. This guide will delve into this complex history and provide comprehensive tips for planning your trip to this evocative corner of the Scottish Highlands, Glencoe.
A Bit of History: The Glencoe Massacre
For centuries, the MacIains of Clan MacDonald had established their presence in Glencoe, growing to become one of the most influential clans within the Highlands. Their history was intertwined with that of Clan Campbell, a relationship marked by generations of low-level conflict, including cattle raids and poaching incidents within each other’s territories. The year 1493 witnessed a significant shift in power dynamics as the Campbells lent their support to James IV, the Stewart King of Scotland, in his efforts to dismantle the MacDonalds’ Lordship. Consequently, Glencoe and the clan’s other holdings were seized by the Crown. Political tensions escalated as the Campbells gained increasing influence at court. During the tumultuous 17th century, the MacDonalds aligned themselves with the losing Jacobite faction against the Protestant King, William of Orange.
In 1691, King William, weary of the ongoing conflicts and raids that plagued Scotland, extended an offer of pardon to the Highland clans who had rebelled against the Crown. This pardon was contingent upon their cessation of raids on neighboring clans and their agreement to swear an oath of allegiance before a magistrate by January 1, 1692. The King’s ultimatum was stark: failure to comply would result in death.
The head of the MacDonald clan, MacIain, initially resisted the King’s decree but eventually conceded. In a fateful turn of events, he journeyed to the incorrect castle to swear the oath. Instead of traveling to Inveraray, near Oban, he went to Inverlochy, close to Fort William. By the time MacIain finally arrived at Inveraray, the deadline had passed by five days. Despite having taken the oath, MacIain believed that his clan was safe. However, unbeknownst to him, orders for their extermination had already been issued, and a contingent of 130 soldiers was dispatched to Glencoe.
The Glencoe Massacre is particularly horrifying due to the MacDonald families’ misplaced trust. Like their leader, they believed they were safe and extended hospitality to the soldiers, welcoming them into their homes and providing them with food and lodging for ten days. On the night of February 12, acting on secret orders (attributed by some to their Campbell captain and by others to the King himself), the soldiers turned on their hosts, murdering between 38 and 40 MacDonalds – men, women, children, and the elderly – as they lay asleep in their beds. The remaining members of the clan fled into the harsh winter mountains, where many perished. Those who survived sought refuge in the caves they knew intimately, a legacy of generations spent as outlaws and cattle rustlers.
Planning Your Trip to Glencoe
A trip to Glencoe demands careful consideration to fully appreciate its natural beauty and historical significance. The following sections offer essential information to help you plan your visit:
Things To Do
The rolling green hills of Glencoe National Nature Reserve may seem familiar, as they have graced the silver screen in numerous films, including several "Harry Potter" installments, "Highlander," "Braveheart," and the James Bond blockbuster "Skyfall." Situated approximately 2.5 hours by car from Edinburgh or two hours from Glasgow or Inverness, Glencoe is a popular destination for day trips from the Scottish Highlands. It offers an array of activities, including hiking, mountaineering, hill trekking, biking, kayaking, wildlife viewing, scenic drives, and winter sports like skiing and sledding.
Begin your exploration with a visit to the National Trust for Scotland Visitor Centre. This center features interactive exhibits that delve into the landscape’s formation, local flora and fauna, and the complex events that culminated in the Glencoe Massacre. Several accessible circular walking trails start from the visitor center. The center also boasts a gift shop, a café, a ranger station, and a viewing platform equipped with a telescope for spotting buzzards, golden eagles, and pine martens.
Next, immerse yourself in local history at the Glencoe and North Lorn Folk Museum, which is open from April to October. Housed in a row of traditional 18th-century thatched cottages near the A82, the museum’s collections encompass Jacobite relics, costumes, toys, domestic utensils, and weapons unearthed from the thatched roofs of local houses. These artifacts were hidden after the Glencoe Massacre and remained concealed for over 200 years.
What to Eat and Drink
Glencoe offers a range of culinary experiences to satisfy every palate. Whether you crave locally sourced seafood, such as oysters, crab, lobster, clams, scallops, and mussels, or prefer the warmth of a hot coffee accompanied by a freshly baked scone, you’ll find something to delight your taste buds. Pub fare is prevalent in the region, with abundant options for fish and chips, burgers, hearty soups, and sandwiches. For a taste of authentic Scottish cuisine, venture to the historic Clachaig Inn, where you can savor unique dishes like game pie, venison pastrami, Stornoway black pudding, and haggis (a vegetarian version is also available).
Whiskey and gin are prominent in this region. The Scotland tourism board has even created a distillery map to guide enthusiasts. Pixel Spirits in North Ballachulish and Ben Nevis Distillery in Fort William are closest to Glencoe, but numerous other distilleries are scattered throughout the Scottish Highlands.
Where to Stay
Glencoe offers a variety of lodging options, including inns, bed and breakfasts, lodges, and Airbnb vacation rentals. These establishments are concentrated in and around Glencoe village, near the Visitor Centre within Glencoe National Nature Reserve, and in the nearby town of Fort William. Budget-conscious travelers can find hostels, while those seeking a more luxurious experience can choose from several boutique hotels. For a truly memorable stay, consider spending a few nights in one of the area’s manor hotels or cottages, typically situated in the countryside outside the larger towns.
Getting There
Traveling to Glencoe is easiest by car, especially if you plan to explore the surrounding area. The drive is a famously scenic journey. It’s a two-hour drive from Inverness, a great day trip from Glasgow (also a two-hour drive away), or about a three-hour drive from Edinburgh. Alternatively, you can fly into one of the airports in Inverness, Glasgow, or Edinburgh, then take a train or bus to Fort William or Bridge of Orchy. From there, a 30-minute bus ride will take you to Glencoe village. The Glencoe Visitor Centre in the Glencoe National Nature Reserve is a short five-minute drive along the A82 from the village, so a taxi is an option if you are not driving.
Money-Saving Tips
- Travel during the shoulder season: Consider visiting Glencoe during the spring or fall to avoid peak season crowds and higher prices for accommodations and transportation.
- Pack your own food: Save money on meals by packing your own snacks and lunches, especially if you plan on hiking or spending time outdoors.
- Take advantage of free activities: Glencoe offers numerous free activities, such as hiking, exploring the Glencoe National Nature Reserve, and visiting the Glencoe and North Lorn Folk Museum.
- Look for deals on accommodations: Check for discounts and special offers on accommodations, especially if you’re traveling during the off-season.
- Use public transportation: If you’re not driving, consider using public transportation to save money on rental car costs.
Glencoe is more than just a destination; it’s an experience that will stay with you long after you leave. By planning your trip carefully, you can immerse yourself in its natural beauty, delve into its rich history, and create unforgettable memories. Glencoe awaits, ready to captivate your senses and stir your soul. This Glencoe travel guide is your companion to this amazing experience.
