Alaska, a land synonymous with rugged wilderness and bountiful seas, often conjures images of king crab, wild salmon, and perhaps the more adventurous reindeer sausage or fireweed-infused chocolates. Yet, beneath the surface of these iconic Alaskan staples lies a vibrant and unexpected culinary landscape: a thriving Asian food scene. While Thai restaurants pepper the Fairbanks area, the capital city of Juneau boasts a unique distinction – a flourishing Filipino food culture. From humble street food carts to established sit-down restaurants, Juneau pulsates with the energy of Filipino chefs, both seasoned veterans and rising stars, all contributing to a fascinating evolution of Filipino cuisine in this northern city. This Alaska City Has a Thriving Filipino Food Scene — and It’s Breeding a New Fusion Cuisine.
A Legacy Forged in History: The Origins of Filipino Eateries in Alaska
The story of Filipino cuisine in Alaska is deeply interwoven with the history of the Filipino community itself. Their presence in Alaska stretches back to the late 18th century. The most significant wave of Filipino immigration occurred in the early 20th century. This period coincided with the United States’ temporary colonial rule over the Philippines. This historical connection spurred migration, as Filipinos sought new opportunities in the burgeoning territory of Alaska.
The 1920s witnessed a further influx of Filipino immigrants drawn by the allure of gold mining and the expanding cannery industry. During this era, Filipinos represented the largest immigrant group in Alaska. Juneau and Ketchikan emerged as the primary hubs where these newcomers established permanent communities after the demanding fishing season concluded. These pioneering immigrants, affectionately known as "Alaskeros," faced the challenge of sustaining themselves when the mines and canneries shuttered for the off-season. Driven by necessity and entrepreneurial spirit, many families turned to the culinary arts, opening restaurants that would become the cornerstones of Juneau’s Filipino food scene.
Today, the legacy of these early immigrants lives on. Filipino immigration to Alaska remains robust, fueled by enduring family ties and the promise of continued job opportunities. The enduring influence of Filipino culture is evident in the fact that Tagalog, the predominant language in the Philippines, ranks as the fourth most spoken language in the state. The restaurants that dot Juneau’s landscape are often family-owned establishments, passed down through generations, serving dishes that embody the culinary heritage of their ancestors.
Standing the Test of Time: Preserving Culinary Traditions
The Carillo family, direct descendants of the original Alaskeros, exemplifies the enduring legacy of Filipino culinary traditions in Juneau. They own several restaurants in the city, including Valley Restaurant, a beloved diner that has nourished Juneau locals for decades. Here, patrons can savor classic Filipino dishes like adobo, a savory braised meat dish, and lumpia, crispy spring rolls. The Carillo family’s food cart, strategically located downtown near the bustling cruise port, attracts long lines of eager customers craving Filipino BBQ and dinuguan, a rich and flavorful pork stew.
Valley Restaurant is not alone in its steadfast dedication to preserving traditional Filipino flavors. Across Juneau, other establishments offer a taste of home. Golddigger serves up comforting dishes like silog, a breakfast staple consisting of fried rice, fried egg, and meat, and sinigang, a tangy and savory soup. Kultura Sa Isla tempts diners with their renditions of adobo and pancit, a noodle dish brimming with vegetables and meat.
The enduring popularity of these traditional dishes and restaurants underscores the vital role that food plays within the Filipino community. As Tasha Elizarde, a first-generation Juneau-raised Filipino-American and host of the radio show "Halo Halo Talk," aptly notes, food serves as a powerful connection to Filipino identity and culture. The shared experience of enjoying familiar dishes in communal settings fosters a sense of belonging and kinship, strengthening bonds within the community.
Elizarde emphasizes that this communal aspect of food is deeply rooted in Filipino culture. It becomes even more pronounced within the diaspora in the United States. Juneau’s significant population of cruise and ferry workers, many of whom are Filipino, seek out these familiar flavors as a comforting reminder of home.
The Evolution of Taste: Filipino Dining in Juneau Embraces Innovation
While tradition provides a comforting anchor, a new generation of Filipino chefs is injecting innovation and unique flavors into Juneau’s Filipino culinary landscape. Over the past two decades, a transformation has been underway. Traditional Filipino fare has been joined by modern Filipino-American interpretations.
Rachel Carillo Barril, a member of the Carillo family with deep Alaskero roots, embodies this spirit of culinary exploration. As the chef de cuisine at In Bocca al Lupo, a popular Italian restaurant in Juneau, Barril skillfully blends her Filipino heritage with Italian culinary techniques. While the main menu features classic pasta and pizza dishes, Barril seizes the opportunity to experiment with Alaskan-Filipino fusions on the seasonal menu. Her creations might include sweet and sour foraged greens or pasta infused with a savory miso sauce.
In Bocca al Lupo is not the only establishment in Juneau pushing the boundaries of Filipino cuisine. Black Moon Koven, a whimsical cafe with a witchy aesthetic, offers a playful take on Filipino flavors. The cafe’s menu features dishes with mystical names like "Moon" and "Tarot," which cleverly incorporate undeniably Filipino ingredients such as spam and pork belly. Black Moon Koven also offers "walking noodles," a healthier twist on traditional Filipino noodle dishes.
The excitement surrounding Juneau’s Filipino food scene stems from its innovative spirit. Chefs are drawing inspiration from Filipino techniques and flavors while adapting them to local ingredients and contemporary tastes. The result is a dynamic and evolving culinary landscape that celebrates both tradition and innovation.
One of the most notable aspects of this culinary evolution is the influence of Alaska itself. Traditional Filipino dishes such as adobo and sinigang often incorporate locally sourced seafood, such as salmon, adding a distinctly Alaskan twist to these familiar flavors. Restaurants are committed to using fresh, foraged ingredients, further enhancing the unique Alaskan character of their dishes.
The fusion of Filipino flavors with other culinary traditions is gaining momentum. As more people discover the richness and diversity of Filipino cuisine, these flavors will continue to find their way into the creations of chefs from various backgrounds. The increasing integration of Filipino flavors into the broader culinary community reflects the growing influence and acceptance of Filipino culture in Juneau.
This type of fusion is particularly evident in the collaborations between Filipino chefs and Alaska’s Indigenous nations. The Tlingit Nation, for instance, has developed its own unique version of adobo, incorporating apple cider vinegar and pickling spice. The Utqiagvik people have created whale lumpia, a dish that embodies the fusion of Alaskan and Filipino culinary traditions.
The enduring Alaska-Filipino connection, built on decades of shared meals and cultural exchange, is beautifully reflected in Juneau’s vibrant Filipino food scene. Family-owned restaurants serving time-honored comfort food coexist alongside innovative chefs who draw inspiration from their neighbors and the abundance of local ingredients. The thriving Filipino food scene in This Alaska City Has a Thriving Filipino Food Scene — and It’s Breeding a New Fusion Cuisine, serves as a testament to the power of food to connect cultures, preserve traditions, and inspire culinary innovation. This Alaska City Has a Thriving Filipino Food Scene — and It’s Breeding a New Fusion Cuisine.
