The Top 14 Things to Do in Ujjain, Madhya Pradesh

Ujjain, a city steeped in history and spirituality, forms a significant part of the Golden Triangle in Madhya Pradesh’s Malwa region, alongside Mandu and Omkareshwar. Revered as one of the seven holiest cities in India, Ujjain beckons pilgrims and travelers alike with its ancient aura and vibrant culture. Primarily associated with Lord Shiva in his formidable manifestation as Lord Mahakal, the protector of the city and the destroyer of all elements, Ujjain offers a tapestry of experiences that extend far beyond its religious significance.

Tracing its origins back to around 700 B.C., Ujjain – then known as Avantika – served as the capital of the Avanti kingdom, a prominent entity mentioned in the Hindu epic "The Mahabharata." This thriving kingdom prospered along the vital trade route connecting northern and southern India. In the 4th century B.C., Chandragupta, the founder of the Mauryan Empire, seized control of the city, solidifying its continued importance.

Ujjain has also found its place in the annals of literature, both ancient and modern. The esteemed 5th-century Indian classical Sanskrit poet Mahakavi Kalidasa, a court poet of the Gupta Empire, immortalized the city in his renowned work "Meghaduta." More recently, the celebrated novelist E.M. Forster journeyed through the region in the early 20th century, capturing his impressions in his writings.

While temples undeniably hold a prominent position among Ujjain’s attractions, the city offers a diverse range of experiences to cater to every interest.

Here are the top 14 things to do in Ujjain, Madhya Pradesh:

1. Attend the Kumbh Mela:

   According to Hindu scriptures, Ujjain is one of the four sacred sites where drops of amrita, the nectar of immortality, fell during the legendary Samudra Manthan, a cosmic battle between gods and demons. The Kumbh Mela, a colossal religious gathering, rotates among these four locations (the others being Haridwar in Uttarakhand, Allahabad in Uttar Pradesh, and Nashik in Maharashtra) every 12 years. In Ujjain, the festival is known as the Simhastha Kumbh Mela, determined by specific planetary alignments. The next Simhastha Kumbh Mela is scheduled for 2028.

   Attending the Kumbh Mela is an experience unlike any other, but it requires preparation and resilience. It is the largest religious gathering on Earth, drawing millions of pilgrims and sadhus (Hindu holy men) from across the globe. They converge on the banks of the Shipra River to cleanse their sins through ritual bathing and engage in spiritual discourses with curious seekers. The sheer scale and intensity of the event are both awe-inspiring and overwhelming, offering a profound glimpse into the heart of Hindu faith.

2. Go Temple Hopping:

   Ujjain is rightly known as a city of temples, each narrating its own mythological tale. With so many sacred sites dotting the landscape, dedicating at least a couple of days to leisurely explore them is highly recommended.

   The most prominent temple is the Mahakaleshwar Temple, the abode of Lord Shiva. This temple is renowned for its unique ritual of smearing the idol with sacred ash at the beginning of each day, a spectacle that draws devotees from far and wide. Just opposite the Mahakaleshwar Temple stands the Bada Ganesh Mandir, home to a colossal idol of Lord Ganesha, the beloved elephant-headed god and son of Lord Shiva, whose impressive scale is worth admiring. Across the lake, en route to Ram Ghat, lies the Harsiddhi Mata Temple, another significant temple dedicated to the worship of Shakti, the divine feminine energy. Restored by the Marathas in the 18th century, the temple’s two pillars are adorned with hundreds of lamps that illuminate brilliantly during the Navaratri festival.

   To the north of the city, across the Shipra River, devotees offer alcohol to Lord Kal Bhairav at his temple as part of a Tantra ritual. Kal Bhairav, an intimidating manifestation of Lord Shiva, is believed to guard the city and is known for his fondness for Royal Stag whiskey.

   Other notable temples in Ujjain include Gopal Mandir in the city’s main market area, Chintaman Ganesh Temple, the ISKCON Temple, and Mangal Nath Mandir. At Siddhavat, along the Shipra River, stands a temple housing an ancient banyan tree said to have been planted by Goddess Parvati. The Bhartrihari Caves, where the philosopher and poet Bhartrihari meditated in the 7th century, also contain a small temple frequented by ash-smeared Nath sadhus.

3. Cleanse Your Body and Soul in the River:

   The Shipra River, also known as the Kshipra River, holds immense significance as one of India’s holiest rivers. The "Skanda Purana," an ancient Hindu text associated with Lord Shiva dating back to around the 6th century, recounts numerous stories about the river. Taking a dip in the Shipra is believed to purify both the body and the soul, washing away sins and bestowing spiritual merit.

   The most revered location for bathing in the Shipra is Ram Ghat, where Lord Ram is said to have performed his father’s last rites. However, numerous other popular bathing ghats line the riverbanks, each offering a unique atmosphere and attracting devotees seeking spiritual cleansing.

4. Observe Local Life by the River:

   Even if you are not particularly interested in the religious significance of Ram Ghat, spending time there offers a fascinating glimpse into the daily life of Ujjain’s residents. The ghat stretches for approximately a kilometer (0.6 miles) along the river, inviting visitors to stroll from one end to the other and soak in the vibrant atmosphere.

   Early mornings at Ram Ghat are particularly captivating. The warm rays of the sun illuminate the temples, the resonant clang of temple bells fills the air, and people engage in their morning devotional rituals. Finding a quiet spot to sit and relax allows you to absorb the peaceful vibe and witness the rhythms of life unfolding along the riverbank.

5. Participate in the Evening Aarti:

   As the sun descends below the horizon, Ram Ghat transforms into a spectacle of mesmerizing light and sound. The glow of earthen lamps illuminates the ghat, temple bells chime rhythmically, and mantras resonate through the air. This ritual, known as the Shipra aarti, is performed every evening to honor the sacred river.

   The lamps are set afloat on the river, carried northwards towards Lord Shiva’s abode in the Himalayas. Witnessing the Shipra aarti is an unforgettable experience that soothes and uplifts the spirit with its tangible divine energy. Consider hiring a boat to venture onto the river and gain a different perspective of the spectacle.

6. Sample Some Street Food:

   Ujjain’s street food scene offers a delectable fusion of Gujarati, Maharashtrian, and Rajasthani culinary influences. In the evenings, dozens of pushcarts laden with tempting snacks converge on Tower Chowk, the bustling square surrounding the city’s landmark clock tower.

   The sheer variety of options can be overwhelming, but be sure to sample local favorites such as pani puri, bhel puri, vada pav, kachori, jalebi, samosa, poha, masala bhutta, various types of chaat, sabudana khichidi, and even Western-style hot dogs and ice cream. Don’t miss the opportunity to try the ice gola (crushed flavored ice) coated with rabri (sweetened condensed milk), a true culinary delight.

   Ujjain is also renowned for its bhang thandai, a sacred substance in Hindu culture closely associated with Lord Shiva. Sold openly in shops throughout the city, it is important to be aware that this milk drink contains cannabis paste. You can find it at Sree Mahakaleshwar Bhaang Ghota, a more-than-century-old establishment located on Mahakaleshwar Road near the temple, which was featured on the popular Indian travel and food show "Highway on my Plate."

7. Get Lost in the Lanes of the Old City:

   Just as Ujjain is a city of temples, it is equally a city of winding alleyways. A labyrinth of narrow lanes stretches from the railway station down to the riverbank. Some lanes are so slender that cars cannot pass through, making them ideal for exploring on foot.

   The lanes surrounding Gopal Mandir, in the heart of the Old City, are perfect for getting lost in. These hidden pathways may not be featured in guidebooks and may appear unremarkable at first glance, but they are an integral part of the city’s fabric. With each turn, you never know what surprises await. Wandering along Ram Ghat and exploring the lanes of the Old City are among the best ways to experience the authentic charm of Ujjain.

8. Bargain at the Bazaars:

   The colorful bazaars of Ujjain reflect the city’s vibrant character. Located in the streets north of the railway station, with the area around Gopal Mandir being the most bustling, the bazaars offer a sensory feast of sights, sounds, and smells.

   Amidst the lively mix of vendors, vehicles, and shoppers, you’ll find a wide array of goods for sale, ranging from copper statues to clothing. Textiles are abundant, with many shops stocked with irresistible batik-printed cotton cloth, a local specialty known as dabu. Bargaining is expected, so be prepared to haggle for the best prices.

9. Buy Batik at Behrugarh Village:

   If you are an admirer of Indian textiles, a trip to Behrugarh (also called Bhairogarh) village is a must. Located on the northern outskirts of Ujjain, between Kal Bhairav and Mangal Nath temples, this village has been the hub of batik printing in Madhya Pradesh for centuries.

   Craftsmen from Rajasthan and Gujarat migrated to Behrugarh during the Mughal era, bringing with them their expertise in batik techniques. Today, approximately 800 artisans in the village are involved in traditional batik printing, creating intricate designs on sheets, saris, cushion covers, scarves, handkerchiefs, napkins, and more. Visiting Behrugarh provides an opportunity to witness the artistry firsthand and purchase unique, handcrafted textiles directly from the artisans.

10. Admire the Architecture of Kaliyadeh Palace:

    Continuing a few kilometers north of Behrugarh, you will reach the ruins of the 15th-century red sandstone Kaliyadeh Palace. Built on the Shipra River during the reign of Mahmud Khilji, the Sultan of Malwa, the palace showcases exquisite domed Persian architecture.

    With a bit of imagination, you can envision what Ujjain might have been like during this prosperous era, when the sultans embarked on a palace-building spree in the region. Inscriptions within one of the palace’s long corridors indicate that the influential Mughal emperors Akbar and Jehangir visited Kaliyadeh Palace. Damaged in a war between the Marathas and Pindaris in 1818, the palace was neglected until Maharaja Sir Madho Rao Scindia of Gwalior restored it in 1920. Although abandoned now, visitors can wander through its arches and view the sun temple within.

11. See Where Lord Krishna Studied:

    For those with a spiritual inclination, a visit to Sandipani Ashram, located on the way to Mangal Nath Mandir, is highly recommended. The ashram belongs to Sandipani Muni, the guru credited in Hindu scriptures with teaching Lord Krishna.

    For over 3,000 years, the ashram served as a distinguished center of learning. The priests who manage the ashram today are direct descendants of the guru. The ashram also features a statue of Nandi (Lord Shiva’s vehicle, the bull) in a rare standing position. Other attractions include a shrine commemorating Sandipani Muni, an ancient Shiva temple, and a reservoir called Gomti Kund, which provides water to the ashram. According to legend, Lord Krishna pressed his feet on the ground at Gomti Kund to bring water from the Gomti River. Two highlights of the ashram are the spot where Lord Krishna washed his slate for writing and a set of footprints attributed to him. The ashram remains functional and conducts summer courses in the Vedas, specifically the Shukla Yajur Veda, every year from April to June.

12. Learn About Ancient Indian Astronomy:

    Ujjain holds a unique geographical significance. The Tropic of Cancer passes through the city, and it served as India’s Prime Meridian (zero degrees longitude) before the world’s official Prime Meridian was established at Greenwich in 1884.

    Ancient Indian mathematicians and astrologers determined this, documenting it in the "Surya Siddhanta," one of the earliest Hindu texts on astronomy, written in the 4th century. Ujjain was a crucial center for mathematical and astronomical research during the 6th and 7th centuries.

    Unfortunately, the city’s first observatory was destroyed by Sultan Iltutmish of Delhi in 1235. It was not until the 18th century that Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh built the existing observatory, known as Jantar Mantar. This is one of five such observatories he constructed in India (the others are in Delhi, Mathura, Varanasi, and Jaipur), and the only one that remains in use. The intriguing astronomical instruments work by casting shadows. Jantar Mantar is open daily, and a small entry fee applies. If you visit around noon on June 21, the day of the summer solstice, the sun will be directly overhead, and your shadow will disappear completely for a minute.

13. Step Back in Time at Ujjain’s Museums:

    Ujjain boasts several quality museums that cater to history and archaeology enthusiasts. Just east of the railway station, the Wakankar Museum is named after the renowned Indian archaeologist who discovered Madhya Pradesh’s prehistoric painted Bhimbetka Rock Caves in 1957. The museum features a fascinating collection of artifacts, including ancient rock art paintings.

    The Triveni Art and Archaeological Museum, located just south of the lake (closed on Mondays and government holidays), was established in 2016. It houses three separate galleries showcasing religious sculptures and art related to lords Shiva and Vishnu, as well as the female energy shakti. Many artifacts from Vikram University’s Vikram Kirti Mandir Museum have been relocated to the Triveni Art and Archaeological Museum, including items from civilizations in the Narmada Valley during the Vikram Era, dating back to 58 B.C. Nearby, the Jain Museum features a comprehensive collection of artifacts belonging to the Jain religion.

14. Explore Sanskrit Classical Literature and Arts:

    Located a short distance down the road from Wakankar Museum is Kalidasa Academy. Established by the Madhya Pradesh government in 1978, the academy is dedicated to preserving the works of poet Mahakavi Kalidasa, often referred to as the Shakespeare of India.

    The academy’s mission extends to researching and promoting Sanskrit classical literature and arts in general. The expansive campus features a library with over 4,000 books (some in English) that is open to the public. You’ll also find paintings, sculptures, manuscripts, stage costumes, masks, and musical instruments. The academy also boasts a garden mentioned in Kalidasa’s works. The academy hosts a diverse program of events, including workshops, plays, films, classical and folk music recitals, and the annual week-long Kalidasa Samaroh festival (usually held in November each year).