French Polynesia, a shimmering archipelago scattered across the vast expanse of the South Pacific, beckons with promises of turquoise lagoons, volcanic peaks draped in emerald foliage, and a culture as vibrant as the coral reefs that fringe its shores. More commonly known as The Islands of Tahiti, this destination has long held a place in the collective imagination as an idyllic escape. While its stunning natural beauty is undeniable, French Polynesia offers a deeper allure: a complex and evolving tapestry of social attitudes toward gender and sexuality, making it a particularly fascinating destination for LGBTQ+ travelers. The Island Paradise That Embraces All Genders, French Polynesia, a semi-autonomous country within the French Republic, operates under the legal framework of France, which includes marriage equality and significant protections against discrimination for LGBTQ+ citizens. This legal foundation provides a sense of security and welcome for same-sex couples and LGBTQ+ individuals visiting from around the world.
However, beyond the legal protections, lies a nuanced social landscape. While French Polynesia embraces LGBTQ+ rights in accordance with French law, it’s important to recognize that it also maintains socially conservative values, particularly outside of the Society Islands, which encompass popular tourist destinations like Tahiti and Bora Bora. This contrast between legal progress and social conservatism creates a unique dynamic that travelers should be aware of and sensitive to. This apparent incongruity is further complicated by the presence of individuals who identify outside the traditional gender binary, a phenomenon deeply rooted in Polynesian culture. In fact, many visitors will encounter genderqueer people early and often throughout their visit.
Understanding the complexities of gender identity in French Polynesia, which shares commonalities with other cultures in the Pacific, is essential to gaining a broader perspective of the islands’ culture and society. The Island Paradise That Embraces All Genders is also a land of ancient traditions. Before embarking on your journey to this island paradise, it’s beneficial to familiarize yourself with the cultural nuances surrounding gender and sexuality.
Mahu: A Third Gender Tradition
On my first visit to Tahiti, the front desk agent at the resort was a man but with feminine qualities. He wore the male uniform but had long hair pulled back into a bun, held in place with a flower crown. One of the most prominent and historically significant aspects of French Polynesian culture is the presence of the mahu. This term, predating European contact, describes individuals who embody a third gender, existing "in the middle" between male and female. The concept of mahu is deeply embedded in Polynesian history and mythology, representing a respected and integral part of society.
Defining mahu within a Western framework can be challenging. Often mistaken for transgender individuals, mahu are best understood as occupying a distinct gender identity, neither fully male nor fully female. This concept resonates with similar third-gender identities found in other parts of Polynesia, the Pacific, and even among some indigenous communities in North America. It is often the Western binary understanding of gender that struggles most to grasp the nuances of mahu.
It’s crucial to understand that mahu refers specifically to gender identity. A mahu can be of any sexual orientation, even celibate, and their acceptance within their communities varies. The mahu often hold important roles within their communities, serving as cultural keepers, healers, and artists. They are known for their grace, compassion, and ability to bridge the gap between genders.
Rae-Rae: Navigating Transgender Identity
In contrast to the traditional mahu identity, French Polynesia also recognizes transgender women who were assigned male at birth, known as rae-rae. Unlike the third gender mahu, rae-rae often undergo medical gender confirmation procedures. While rae-rae are gaining increasing visibility and acceptance in French Polynesia, there is still a degree of stigma associated with this identity. This is partly because a distinctly transgender identity is sometimes viewed as a more recent, Western influence on Polynesian culture, contrasting with the long-held understanding and acceptance of mahu.
Despite these challenges, rae-rae are making significant strides in representation and recognition. In 2022, trans actress Pahoa Mahagafanau starred in "Pacification," an official selection at the Cannes Film Festival. She even wore a custom dress made from traditional Tahitian tapa cloth on the red carpet, showcasing both her talent and her cultural heritage. Additionally, Abel Hauata made history as the first transgender winner of the Miss University pageant, further highlighting the growing visibility and acceptance of rae-rae in French Polynesia.
These achievements are not only significant for the rae-rae community but also contribute to a broader understanding and acceptance of transgender identities within French Polynesian society.
The Evolving LGBTQ+ Landscape
The presence of mahu and rae-rae provides a unique context for understanding the broader LGBTQ+ landscape in French Polynesia. While these traditional and emerging gender identities are increasingly recognized, the understanding of homosexuality among cisgender individuals is still developing.
Jean-Philippe Lo Siou, a gay man of Chinese and Tahitian heritage born on Tahiti, shared his personal experience of coming out to his parents. Their initial reaction was to associate his identity with rae-rae, asking if he wanted to become a girl. This highlights the potential for misunderstanding and the need for continued education and awareness. However, Lo Siou also noted that his siblings were more accepting, suggesting a generational shift in attitudes.
Lo Siou credits the influence of imported movies and television shows from France and the United States for fostering a better understanding of cisgender LGBTQ+ people in French Polynesia. These media representations have helped to soften attitudes and pave the way for the emergence of a small, tightly-knit LGBTQ+ community that is actively engaged in advocacy.
For example, while France’s marriage equality law extends to French Polynesia, other legal protections, such as the PACS (civil solidarity pact), were not automatically adopted. A local LGBTQ+ advocacy group, Cousins Cousines, is working to address this disparity and ensure equal rights for all members of the community.
Navigating Your Trip: What to Know
When planning a trip to this Island Paradise That Embraces All Genders, it’s essential to keep in mind the evolving social landscape surrounding gender and sexuality. While French Polynesia offers legal protections and a general atmosphere of tolerance, it’s crucial to approach the culture with respect and sensitivity.
"The Tahitian people are known to be very welcoming and tolerant—they love to share their culture and daily life with visitors," said Tahiti Tourisme CEO Jean-Marc Mocellin. "They also have respect for others, and they will accept gay couples without even asking questions." However, Mocellin also advised that some same-sex couples may feel more comfortable avoiding overly intimate displays of affection in public, erring on the side of caution and respecting local customs.
As with any travel experience, the key is to observe and learn from the local residents. By approaching the culture with an open mind and a willingness to understand things within their specific context, you can ensure a respectful and enriching experience.
French Polynesia is more than just a beautiful destination; it’s a place where tradition and modernity intersect, where ancient customs coexist with evolving social attitudes. By embracing the complexities of this cultural landscape, travelers can gain a deeper appreciation for the richness and diversity of French Polynesian society.
