Imagine a culinary landscape where gastronomic adventure intertwines with ecological responsibility. Welcome to the burgeoning world of "invasivorism," a food movement that challenges conventional notions of cuisine by championing the consumption of invasive species. These are the plants and animals that, while often delicious, wreak havoc on ecosystems far from their native lands. From lionfish sushi to snakehead tacos, the invasivore diet is as intriguing as it is impactful.
Invasivorism is more than just a quirky food trend; it’s a conscious effort to address the growing ecological crisis caused by non-native species. These intruders, introduced either deliberately or accidentally, often lack natural predators in their new environments, allowing their populations to explode. This unchecked growth can lead to significant environmental damage, outcompeting native species, disrupting food chains, and even altering habitats.
The Hottest Item on the Menu? The Neighborhood Pest, indeed. The movement’s core principle is simple: "If you can’t beat ’em, eat ’em." By creating a demand for these invasive species, invasivorism aims to control their populations, mitigate the damage they cause, and restore balance to affected ecosystems. The movement has spawned catchy slogans like "Eradication by mastication" and "Swallow ’em into submission," reflecting its ambitious goals.
One of the early pioneers of invasivorism is Chef Bun Lai, who introduced an invasive species menu at his New Haven sushi restaurant, Miya’s, back in 2005. Lai believes that humans, as the primary drivers of ecological destruction, have a responsibility to rectify the damage. "The most destructive force in the world is the human appetite," he asserts. "Humans have eaten and hunted away countless species and destroyed habitats to raise the things we eat, so it makes sense to instead aim that appetite at species that are destructive to the environment in order to balance out those habitats."
The roots of invasive species problems in the U.S. are varied. Some, like the ubiquitous dandelion, arrived centuries ago with European colonists. Others are the result of more recent missteps, such as the introduction of carp to aquaculture facilities in the 1970s. These fish, intended to clean up the ponds, escaped during floods and have since become a major nuisance in rivers and lakes.
The impact of invasive species is staggering. According to Scientific American, they are the second-most significant cause of global biodiversity loss, trailing only habitat destruction. The economic cost is equally alarming, with invasive species costing the U.S. tens of billions of dollars annually.
Consider the case of feral pigs. Descendants of animals brought to the Americas by early explorers and supplemented by Eurasian boars introduced for hunting, feral pigs now roam across 35 states. A Texas Parks & Wildlife report estimates their population at 6.9 million, causing approximately $300 in damage per pig each year. This adds up to a staggering $2.1 billion annually, accounting for crop destruction, water contamination, competition with native wildlife, and vehicle collisions.
Chef Jesse Griffiths, from Austin’s Dai Due restaurant and The New School of Traditional Cookery, is a vocal advocate for utilizing feral pig meat. He emphasizes the "win-win" nature of serving this often-overlooked protein source. "It’s just plain good, and every pound we serve is a protein source that doesn’t have to be fed, fenced, [given] veterinary care or antibiotics, or transported long distances."
Humans are almost always the cause of a species becoming invasive. Whether it’s accidentally transporting organisms in the ballast water of ships, such as the parasitic sea lamprey or wakame seaweed, or intentionally releasing exotic pets like lionfish into the ocean, human actions are often the catalyst.
Bun Lai stresses the urgency of addressing the ecological crisis. "The [mass extinction period] we’re in right now is because of us, really the wealthiest of us. We’re at a critical point where everyone should be thinking about how everything we buy, do and eat impacts the planet," he explains. He believes that adopting an invasivore diet is a tangible way to make a positive impact. "Eating wild and invasive things [is] one of the most local, regenerative, seasonal, and sustainable ways to achieve that goal," he adds.
Sara Bradley, a "Top Chef" season 16 runner-up, is another champion of invasivorism, particularly when it comes to Asian carp. At her Paducah, Kentucky, restaurant, Freight House, she promotes the fish as a "hyper-local, wild-caught seasonal product." By focusing on the local and sustainable aspects of the fish, she aims to make it more appealing to diners.
Bradley emphasizes the importance of transparency and education. "People generally want to do their part, especially if all it requires is having a delicious dinner. We lay out the health benefits, benefits to the local economy, the low carbon footprint. We know who caught it and where. It’s only been out of water for four hours when it gets to the kitchen," she says.
Chef William Dissen, owner of three North Carolina restaurants and a United Nations culinary ambassador, believes that the unfamiliarity of wild foods is a major hurdle. He partners with Asheville-based No Taste Like Home for forage-and-feast tours, introducing guests to regional invasive ingredients like multiflora rose, Japanese honeysuckle, and knotweed. "If we were able to take the time to be more thoughtful and more connected to the world around us, we would fight issues like climate change more abruptly. We can make a change in the world through the food we eat," Dissen says.
Invasivorism isn’t just for meat-eaters. Plants can also be invasive, as is the case with kudzu, often referred to as "the vine that ate the South." Introduced as an ornamental plant and erosion control measure, kudzu now blankets millions of acres.
Chef Alex Perry of Vestige in Ocean Springs, Mississippi, advocates for utilizing kudzu instead of relying on chemical controls. He uses the leaves, flowers, and roots to create a versatile thickener for his kitchen. "Instead of going scorched Earth with chemicals that have indirect impacts on surrounding species, we can be better stewards by yanking it out and eating it," Perry says.
Sara Bradley also recognizes the need for widespread adoption to make a significant impact on the invasive species problem. She regularly contacts fast-food chains and policymakers, urging them to incorporate Asian carp into their menus. "Restaurants aren’t going to make a significant dent in the [invasive] problem. We help, but it’s going to take the big guys using it on a wide scale," she explains.
Several state agencies and conservation groups are leveraging people’s desire to protect the environment, utilizing social media to promote programs and campaigns that encourage the consumption of invasive species.
One of the most prominent examples is the lionfish. This venomous fish has become a major threat in the Caribbean, South America, the Gulf of Mexico, and especially Northwest Florida. The fringed fish are voracious predators, consuming native species like grouper and snapper.
The Florida government has taken steps to encourage lionfish harvesting, eliminating the need for a license and removing size and catch limits. Alex Fogg, Destin Fort-Walton Beach’s coastal resource manager, also spearheads community events like the Emerald Coast Open, the world’s largest lionfish spearfishing tournament, and Lionfish Restaurant Week.
"People get really into it. Scuba diving is pretty awesome, but spearfishing takes it to a whole new level," Fogg says. "And for the destination, removing 15,000 fish in a weekend helps provide relief to the native species and the ecosystem. The fantastic dishes chefs come up with create demand to eat it so more people will hunt it on a regular basis. It’s a positive cycle to jumpstart."
Lionfish are often considered the perfect gateway invasive species. Their flavor and texture are similar to other popular seafood, making them easy to incorporate into familiar dishes. They are also incredibly versatile, suitable for sushi, burgers, ceviche, tacos, and even fish fingers. And, unfortunately, they are plentiful in many tourist destinations.
Resorts like Turneffe Island Resort in Belize offer guests training in lionfish hunting techniques, organizing specialized snorkeling and diving excursions. In Curaçao, renowned lionfish huntress Lissette Keus leads diving expeditions and stocks her Lionfish and Mangoes kitchen with her catch.
Despite its growing popularity, invasivorism faces criticism. Some dismiss it as a gimmick, while others question its potential to make a significant impact. Some argue that veganism is the only truly sustainable path forward. Ludo and Otto Brockway, co-directors of the documentary "Eating Our Way To Extinction," believe that leaving nature alone is the best approach. "We would argue that eating invasive species is unnecessary. When we leave nature alone, it seems to have a wonderful way of bringing back balance to itself without human interference," they say.
The Hottest Item on the Menu? The Neighborhood Pest may not be a perfect solution, but it’s a step in the right direction.
Despite the criticisms, Bun Lai is encouraged by the growing interest in invasivorism. "I used to get my feelings hurt all the time because people would take one look at the menu and run out the door," he recalls. "Then people started flying in from around the world to eat my food. Other chefs are adding invasives to menus. Customers are seeking them out. The more people exposed to the concept, the more likely it will catch on."
The Hottest Item on the Menu? The Neighborhood Pest is more than just a culinary curiosity; it is a call to action. It is a reminder that our food choices have a direct impact on the environment, and that by embracing innovative approaches like invasivorism, we can contribute to a more sustainable future.
This discussion about The Hottest Item on the Menu? The Neighborhood Pest is not about finding a quick fix, but about starting a conversation, encouraging mindful consumption, and ultimately, fostering a deeper connection with the natural world.
