Savannah, Georgia, a city draped in Spanish moss and steeped in history, first captured the nation’s imagination through John Berendt’s captivating 1994 novel, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil. The book, later adapted into a film, painted a vivid portrait of a city brimming with Southern charm, eccentric characters, and a palpable sense of mystery. The story of a wealthy antiques dealer, a tragic murder, and the colorful personalities that populated the city’s social scene propelled Savannah onto the global tourism stage. Visitors flocked to experience the allure of its verdant parks, historic squares, and the evocative cobblestone streets that line its riverfront.
A Southern Belle with a Modern Spirit
Like its sister city, Charleston, Savannah offers a unique blend of Southern hospitality and historical richness. Founded in 1733 by British General James Oglethorpe, it has evolved into a vibrant hub where tradition meets contemporary sensibilities. This is particularly evident in its welcoming atmosphere for LGBTQ+ individuals. The city seamlessly blends its historic charm with a modern, inclusive spirit, making it an appealing destination for all travelers.
The presence of the Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) plays a crucial role in fostering a dynamic and progressive environment. The college, with its nearly 13,000 undergraduate students, injects a constant stream of fresh, creative energy into the city. Fashion icon André Leon Talley’s role as a trustee further underscores the institution’s influence on the city’s cultural landscape. SCAD’s presence ensures a vibrant arts scene and a steady influx of young, creative minds, which contributes significantly to Savannah‘s LGBTQ+ friendly atmosphere.
Days Filled with History, Haunts, and Hospitality
A visit to Savannah can be easily filled with a diverse range of activities. Numerous tours delve into the city’s rich architectural heritage, its complex history, and its intriguing reputation for being one of America’s most haunted cities. The city’s timeline is punctuated by tales of grisly murders and ghostly encounters, adding a layer of intrigue for those interested in the paranormal. Beyond its history and haunts, Savannah also boasts a collection of unique attractions that are sure to captivate visitors.
Foodies will delight in the city’s culinary scene, which showcases both classic and innovative Southern and Lowcountry cuisine. From the quintessential shrimp and grits to modern interpretations of traditional dishes, Savannah‘s restaurants offer a delicious journey through the flavors of the South.
LGBTQ+ Life in Savannah
While Savannah may not have a sprawling network of exclusively LGBTQ+ nightlife venues, its inclusive atmosphere makes it a welcoming destination for queer travelers. Currently, Club One stands as the sole remaining dedicated LGBTQ+ club, but the city’s queer community fosters a strong sense of connection through private house parties and community events. These gatherings provide opportunities to socialize and forge friendships with locals.
The annual Savannah Pride celebration, held during the last weekend of October, is a highlight of the LGBTQ+ calendar. Combining the festive spirit of Halloween with a celebration of queer identity, the event features a range of indoor and outdoor activities, parties, and gatherings. It’s a vibrant and jubilant occasion that brings together the LGBTQ+ community and allies from across the region.
For those seeking a more secluded experience, The Hideaway Campground, located just an hour outside Savannah, offers a clothing-optional retreat specifically catering to the LGBTQ+ community. The campground hosts a variety of special weekends and events, including gatherings for bears, fetish enthusiasts, and lesbian-only groups.
Exploring the City: Must-See Attractions
Visit Savannah, the city’s official tourism office, provides a wealth of resources for visitors, including articles dedicated to Savannah‘s LGBTQ+ history. History plays a central role in the Savannah experience, and numerous themed tours offer insights into the city’s past.
Architectural Tours of Savannah, founded by local LGBTQ+ resident Jonathan Stalcup, offers engaging walking tours that explore the city’s unique architectural landscape. Stalcup’s tours provide a wealth of information about the city’s buildings, their evolution over time, and the fascinating stories behind them. Even those who aren’t particularly interested in architecture will find these tours captivating, thanks to Stalcup’s engaging storytelling and deep knowledge of Savannah.
The Mercer Williams House Museum, famously featured in Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, is another must-see attraction. Visitors can take a guided tour of the house, which is filled with art and antiques, and learn about the life of Jim Williams and the infamous events that took place within its walls. While only the downstairs is open to the public (Williams’ sister still resides on the property), the tour offers a fascinating glimpse into the world depicted in the book.
The SCAD Museum of Art is a significant cultural institution in Savannah. With almost 20,000 square feet of gallery space and expansive outdoor areas, the museum showcases contemporary multimedia exhibitions by international artists and designers. Past exhibitions have included a retrospective of Oscar de la Renta and "Beast In Show" by the Haas Brothers. Nearby, shopSCAD offers a curated selection of artwork, jewelry, clothing, and home goods created by talented designers and artists, including SCAD students and alumni.
For those with a taste for the macabre, the Graveface Museum is a unique and unforgettable attraction. Located in the up-and-coming Starland District, the museum houses an impressive collection of artifacts related to serial killers, cults, the occult, and sideshow oddities. The museum also features a horror movie-themed pinball arcade and a store stocked with paraphernalia, original T-shirts, and vinyl records.
Coffee, Chocolate, and Tattoos: Unique Savannah Experiences
Coffee lovers should make a point of visiting Perc Coffee, a local craft roaster known for its excellent coffee and progressive values. Owner Philip Brown is a proud parent of a trans child, and Perc’s employees represent the entire LGBTQ+ spectrum. Blends, a gay-owned coffee boutique in downtown Savannah, also roasts its own internationally sourced beans and offers a full breakfast and lunch menu.
For a permanent souvenir of your trip, consider getting inked at Riverside Tattoo Parlor, a queer, women-owned and run establishment.
Chocolate enthusiasts will find paradise at Chocolat by Adam Turoni. This openly gay chocolatier creates artfully designed, high-quality confections, from gold-dusted honeycomb bars to mint julep and red velvet cake truffles. With multiple locations, each themed and designed to evoke a different type of room, Chocolat offers a unique and delicious experience.
LGBTQ+ Nightlife and Social Scene
As mentioned earlier, Savannah‘s LGBTQ+ nightlife scene has evolved in recent years, with many gay bars closing their doors. However, Club One remains a vibrant hub for dancing, drag shows, and socializing. The club offers a variety of events, including drag cabarets that often require advance reservations due to their popularity.
Yes, Queen! is a unique bar crawl tour led by local drag queens, offering a fun and interactive way to experience Savannah‘s nightlife. While primarily attended by bachelorette parties and straight tourists, the tour provides an opportunity to connect with the queens and get insider tips on the city’s social scene. The House of Gunt, a fierce alternative drag troupe, is another notable presence in Savannah‘s drag scene.
Bar Food, a mixed sports bar with a dozen large TVs, an outdoor patio, and a pub food menu, is lesbian-owned.
Ultimately, connecting with the local LGBTQ+ community is key to experiencing Savannah‘s vibrant social scene. Don’t hesitate to strike up conversations, attend local events, and embrace the city’s welcoming spirit.
Culinary Delights: Where to Eat
Savannah offers a diverse culinary landscape with a growing number of LGBTQ+-owned and managed restaurants, as well as establishments that openly embrace the LGBTQ+ community.
B. Matthew’s, a historic downtown eatery, is a must-visit for breakfast or brunch. The restaurant designates itself as a safe space for the transgender community and serves decadent renditions of Southern and Lowcountry classics. Drag brunch is a popular weekend activity in Savannah, and Moon River Brewing Company hosts a monthly family-friendly Sunday Drag Brunch presented by Club One.
Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room, a family-run institution open since the 1940s, is a Savannah landmark. Serving family-style Southern staples like fried chicken, mac and cheese, black-eyed peas, and cornbread, it’s a must-try for anyone seeking an authentic taste of Southern cuisine.
For a more upscale dining experience, Husk and Common Thread offer progressive takes on Southern cuisine. Common Thread, located in a restored 1840s house, features locavore-centric offerings with a touch of hipster flair.
Starland Yard is a popular gathering spot for LGBTQ+ locals, offering a variety of food and drink options from ever-changing food truck line-ups.
If you’re craving European fare, Circa 1875 and La Scala Ristorante, owned by a gay couple, offer traditional French and Italian cuisine, respectively.
Where to Stay: Comfortable and Welcoming Accommodations
The Perry Lane Hotel, a Luxury Collection Hotel, is ideally located in the heart of the Historic District, surrounded by shops, coffee shops, and attractions. The hotel features a rooftop swimming pool and bar, modern art throughout, a fitness center, and complimentary cocktail demos.
The Brice Hotel, a Kimpton property, is another LGBTQ+-friendly option located near River Street. The hotel offers complimentary use of bicycles and boasts a seasonal outdoor pool.
The JW Marriott Savannah Plant Riverside District, part of a massive riverfront redevelopment project, offers crisp, modern rooms with river or city views, a fitness center, a full-service spa, and a variety of dining and beverage venues.
For a more intimate experience, the Foley House Inn, a gay bed and breakfast, is reportedly haunted, adding a touch of mystery to your stay. Other LGBTQ+ (and friendly) properties in Savannah include the Catherine Ward House Inn, the River Street Inn, the Galloway House Inn, and the Andaz Savannah hotel.
