The quest for culinary perfection takes many forms. In New York, it might be the tireless search for the perfect bagel, while in Chicago, the debate rages on about which establishment crafts the definitive deep-dish pizza. But in Paris, the pursuit is singularly focused: the best baguette. While personal preferences inevitably play a role, the French, ever meticulous, have established a rigorous set of criteria for evaluating this iconic loaf, transforming the search into a highly structured and anticipated annual event. This is a deep dive inside the annual competition that determines the best baguette in Paris.
The baguette, a symbol of France itself, is more than just bread. It’s a cultural touchstone, a daily ritual, and an integral part of the French culinary experience. An astonishing 16 million baguettes are produced daily across France, culminating in a staggering six billion sold annually. Recognizing its profound cultural significance, UNESCO added the "artisanal know-how and culture of baguette bread" to its Intangible Cultural Heritage list in November 2022, solidifying its place as a treasure to be preserved.
"Most French people have some baguettes at least once a day," explains the team at Hotel Montalembert, a Parisian boutique hotel. "The baguette is part of our heritage: A day without bread is like a face without a smile." They further highlight the French tradition of l’art de saucer, using the baguette to savor every last drop of sauce from a delicious meal – saucer notre assiette, as they say. This simple act underscores the baguette’s role as a fundamental component of the French dining experience.
Each year, the city of Paris becomes the epicenter of this bread-centric obsession with the Grand Prix de la Baguette de Tradition Française de la Ville de Paris. This annual competition seeks to identify and celebrate the pinnacle of baguette craftsmanship within the French capital. It’s a serious affair, judged by a discerning panel composed of baking experts, previous winners, seasoned journalists, and, perhaps most importantly, randomly selected Parisian citizens, representing the everyday consumer. This diverse panel ensures that the winning baguette appeals to both connoisseurs and the general public alike. The annual competition that determines the best baguette in Paris is more than just a contest; it’s a cultural phenomenon.
The path to baguette glory is paved with strict regulations. To even be considered for the coveted title, each loaf must adhere to precise specifications. Length is paramount, with baguettes required to measure between 50 and 55 centimeters. Weight is also crucial, falling within the narrow range of 250 to 270 grams. Finally, the salt content is carefully regulated, with a maximum of 18 grams per kilogram of flour. These parameters ensure a level playing field and focus the judges’ attention on the nuances of baking technique and ingredient quality.
Once the baguettes meet these initial criteria, they are presented to the judges for a blind tasting. Each loaf is meticulously evaluated based on five key components: appearance, cooking, texture, smell, and taste. Appearance encompasses the visual appeal of the crust, its color, and the overall form of the baguette. Cooking refers to the evenness of the bake, the development of the crust, and the internal structure of the crumb. Texture assesses the crispness of the crust and the chewiness of the interior. Smell considers the aroma of the freshly baked bread, a key indicator of fermentation and ingredient quality. Finally, taste is the ultimate test, evaluating the overall flavor profile and the balance of sweet, salty, and yeasty notes.
The rewards for winning the Grand Prix de la Baguette de Tradition Française de la Ville de Paris are significant. Beyond the prestige of being named the maker of "the best baguette in Paris," the winner receives a year-long contract to supply baguettes to the President of France at the Élysée Palace. This coveted position places the winning baker at the heart of French power and provides unparalleled exposure. In addition to the honor, the victor also receives a monetary prize of 4,000 Euros (approximately $4,320). It is worth noting, however, that participation in the annual competition that determines the best baguette in Paris, while prestigious, isn’t universal. In 2023, out of 1,122 bakeries in Paris, only 175 submitted their baguettes for consideration, representing just over 10 percent of the city’s baking establishments.
The journey doesn’t end with the Paris competition. The winner and the first runner-up advance to the regional competition, facing off against the best baguettes from the surrounding areas. Those who qualify then proceed to the national contest, held during the Fête du Pain, a public celebration of bread that takes place in front of the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris. In 2023, all three contests were held within a single week, creating a whirlwind of baking and judging.
"Food is in every conversation in France," observes the Hotel Montalembert team. "This competition is the talk of the town, and every Parisian will, at some point, try the baguette at the winner’s boulangerie." The competition ignites public interest and drives customers to the winning bakery, eager to sample the acclaimed loaf.
It’s important to understand that the baguette de tradition evaluated in these competitions differs significantly from the softer, tan-colored baguettes often found in American bakeries. The authentic French baguette boasts a hard, almost black exterior, achieved through high-temperature baking, and a characteristically chewy interior.
"A good baguette is crispy and has an airy crumb," confirms the Hotel Montalembert team. The ingredient list is intentionally simple: flour, water, salt, and yeast. This minimalist approach allows the quality of the ingredients and the skill of the baker to shine through. Crucially, a baguette de tradition contains no chemicals or preservatives, resulting in a short shelf life of approximately five hours. This emphasizes the importance of freshness and encourages daily consumption.
Furthermore, a proper baguette de tradition must be made by hand and sold in the bakery where it was baked, as mandated by French law. This ensures authenticity and supports local bakeries. You won’t find the winning baguette anywhere else but at the baker’s own establishment, making a visit to the boulangerie a pilgrimage for bread lovers.
In 2023, the winner of the 30th annual Grand Prix de la Baguette de Traditional Française de la Ville De Paris was Tharshan Selvarajah, a baker of Sri Lankan origin, from Au Levain des Pyrénées bakery. His victory highlighted the increasingly diverse landscape of Parisian baking. The national contest was won by Ludovic Desoeuvres and his La Fournée des Fables bakery in Château-Thierry, a town located about an hour from Paris.
Even the baguettes that don’t meet the stringent competition standards contribute to the community. In 2023, the leftover loaves were donated to La Chorba, a nonprofit organization that utilizes food waste to combat food insecurity, ensuring that nothing goes to waste. This charitable initiative adds another layer of social responsibility to the annual competition that determines the best baguette in Paris.
