An LGBTQ+ Travel Guide to Charleston, South Carolina

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Charleston, South Carolina, a city steeped in history and Southern charm, has consistently captivated travelers, drawing record-breaking numbers of visitors year after year. In 2019 alone, nearly 7.43 million people flocked to this coastal gem, contributing a staggering $9.7 billion to the local economy. Its frequent appearances on "Best U.S. Cities" lists are a testament to its undeniable allure. But beyond its historical significance and picturesque streets, Charleston is increasingly recognized as a welcoming destination for LGBTQ+ travelers.

This recognition is reflected in its score of 82 on the Human Rights Campaign’s Municipal Equality Index in 2019, a solid indicator of its commitment to LGBTQ+ inclusivity. Further amplifying its LGBTQ+ visibility, the city played host to the second season of HBO’s drag reality series "We’re Here" in 2021, featuring the charismatic Patti O’Furniture, a local drag icon known for her campy comedy and regular appearances at Charleston’s vibrant drag shows and brunches.

Founded in 1670, Charleston shares intriguing parallels with another beloved LGBTQ+-friendly seaport city, Savannah, Georgia. Both cities boast a similar Southern charm and a welcoming atmosphere. In fact, Charleston even features outposts of Savannah-born businesses, such as the decadent Chocolat by Adam Turoni (owned by a gay entrepreneur), the innovative Southern cuisine of Husk restaurant, and the honey-centric delights of the Savannah Bee Company. A combined visit to both cities offers a fabulous double-destination vacation, sparking friendly debates about which locale reigns supreme.

Events & Festivals: Celebrating Pride and the Arts in Charleston

Charleston’s commitment to the LGBTQ+ community is evident in its growing calendar of events and festivals. Two major Pride celebrations anchor the summer months. Charleston Pride Week, an annual tradition spanning over a decade, takes place in the early fall when the weather begins to cool. This week-long extravaganza features a diverse array of activities, parties, and a vibrant parade, showcasing the city’s LGBTQ+ spirit. The parent organization behind Charleston Pride keeps the celebrations going throughout the year with various events and fundraisers, announcements of which can be found on their Facebook page.

The inaugural Park Circle Pride took place in June 2021, marking another significant milestone for the city’s LGBTQ+ community. This event benefits the South Carolina-based Alliance For Full Acceptance (AFFA) and We Are Family, an organization dedicated to supporting LGBTQI+ youth. Park Circle Pride offers a week-long schedule packed with engaging activities, including dazzling drag brunches, captivating drag storytime for children, lively dances, diverse entertainment, a feminist magic market, and a youth-focused lineup for those under 18.

Beyond Pride events, Charleston is a cultural hub for the performing arts. The annual Spoleto Festival USA, founded in 1977 by composer Gian Carlo Menotti as an American counterpart to Italy’s renowned Festival of Two Worlds, presents a diverse range of performing and visual arts. The festival often includes productions and talks by iconic LGBTQ+ creators, making it a must-attend event for art enthusiasts. In 2019, highlights included dances by the Bill T. Jones/Arnie Zane Company, a production of Oscar Wilde’s "Salome," and a thought-provoking conversation with Jones himself.

For a comprehensive listing of LGBTQ+ events and relevant information during your stay, the Charleston Convention and Visitors Bureau’s official tourism website, Explore Charleston, is an invaluable resource. Additionally, the alternative weekly/online publication, Charleston City Paper, provides up-to-date coverage of local happenings. Eventbrite also offers a platform to discover and purchase tickets for various gay nightlife events and drag brunches.

The Best Things to Do: Exploring History, Art, and Culture

Charleston offers a multitude of tours that provide insightful introductions to the city’s rich history, vibrant downtown area, Upper King Street’s dining scene, and the city’s retail district. Among these, you can find tours specifically themed around the LGBTQ+ experience.

Tyler Page Wright, a history enthusiast captivated by Charleston’s compelling stories, founded Walk & Talk Charleston, a walking tour company. She offers a monthly 90-minute "Real Rainbow Row Tour" that delves into the city’s LGBTQ+ history. Scheduled on the second Sunday of each month and during Charleston Pride Week, this tour supports the College of Charleston’s SC LGBTQ Archive. A fascinating historical tidbit: Lesbian literary icon Gertrude Stein and her partner Alice B. Toklas spent Valentine’s Day in Charleston during Stein’s tour of the United States in the 1930s, where she promoted her writing. Alternatively, you can embark on a self-guided Real Rainbow Row tour using the College of Charleston’s online map.

The International African American Museum is a highly anticipated addition to Charleston’s cultural landscape, with a projected opening in 2022. Located on Gadsen’s Wharf, the site where approximately 100,000 enslaved Africans arrived centuries ago, the museum will highlight African American history, including that of the region’s Gullah people, and explore the present-day experiences of African Americans.

The Gibbes Museum of Art, first opened in 1905, boasts a permanent collection spanning four centuries, showcasing a diverse range of artistic styles and mediums. The collection includes works by acclaimed contemporary local artist Jonathan Green, who is openly gay and of Gullah heritage. Green welcomes visitors to his Charleston studio by appointment, providing a unique opportunity to engage with his art and learn about his cultural background.

Housed in a Gothic Revival-style, 19th-century railroad passenger station, the Charleston Music Hall hosts a wide variety of local and touring performing arts engagements, often featuring LGBTQ+ highlights. If you’re a fan of rockabilly music, local promoter Simon Cantlon, co-founder of Park Circle Pride, organizes the annual Rockabillaque festival in November.

The Best LGBTQ+ Bars & Clubs: Where to Celebrate and Connect

Charleston, like Savannah, currently has only one officially designated LGBTQ+ bar/nightclub. Dudley’s On Ann, celebrating its 28th anniversary in 2022, has been a cornerstone of Charleston’s LGBTQ+ scene. Initially located on King Street, Dudley’s moved to its current Ann Street location in 2001. Beyond dancing, mingling, and drinks, Dudley’s is a premier destination for local drag entertainment from Thursday to Sunday. However, be prepared for potentially long lines, especially on Friday and Saturday nights, as the 8 p.m. drag shows often draw large crowds. Arrive early to secure your spot!

For those seeking more drag entertainment options, The Hive in the nearby town of Ladson bills itself as an "up and coming drag bar," offering a weekly calendar filled with drag BINGO, karaoke, and weekend performances. The national franchise Diva Royale’s drag and celebrity impersonation shows take place in Charleston on Friday and Saturday nights and Sunday afternoons at Deco Lounge. El Jefe, a "Texican Cantina," hosts the weekly "Wigout Wednesday" drag show and serves up fusion cuisine. In addition to Patti O’Furniture, be on the lookout for other talented Charlestonian queens, including Venus Alexander, Crystal Juysir, Symone N. O’Bishop, and Sapphire Lefaris.

Commonhouse Aleworks, a progressive craft brewery, is known for its LGBTQ+-friendly atmosphere. Co-owner Pearce Fleming is a co-founder of Park Circle Pride, and their unCOMMONly GOOD Beer Series benefits a rotating roster of progressive organizations, including the LGBTQ+ AFFA and We Are Family. Charleston’s many rooftop bars are also considered LGBTQ+-friendly, with Stars offering stunning views.

Where to Eat: Savoring Southern Flavors and LGBTQ+ Hospitality

Ebony and Kym Mullins, a Californian couple, left their respective military careers and the West Coast behind in 2019 to open Leeah’s, a wine bar and shop, in the Old Village district of Mount Pleasant. Leeah’s features weekly tasting events, concerts, and a curated selection of excellent wines, both on tap and bottled. They also serve craft beer (including a veteran-brewed and owned selection), breakfast, and a light snack menu.

Stella’s, a Greek restaurant owned by a gay couple, Steven Niketas and Michael Routzahn, is known for its sizable portions and authentic flavors. For LGBTQ+ foodies, Husk is one of Charleston’s most iconic restaurants, celebrated for its innovative use of strictly Southern-sourced ingredients and nouveau Lowcountry cuisine. The Rarebit, an Upper King gastropub, serves Southern staples, plus some vegan-friendly options, and is known for one of the country’s best Moscow Mules. Seafood fans will delight in the raw bar, fry baskets, and other specialties at The Darling Oyster Bar, a fabulous brunch venue.

For a generous side of drag with brunch, the semi-annual Divas of Drag Brunch boasts a whopping lineup of drag performers, while a near-weekly slate of other drag brunches can be found via Eventbrite.

Where to Stay: Luxurious Accommodations and Southern Charm

Charleston offers a range of accommodations to suit every taste and budget. For a luxurious stay, consider the Charleston Place Hotel, part of the upmarket LGBTQ+-friendly Belmond portfolio. This historic and centrally-located hotel features fresh and contemporary Southern luxury rooms, a swimming pool with a retractable glass roof, a spa, salon, shops, and the excellent Charleston Grill restaurant.

The Hotel Bennett, located just off Marion Square, wins plaudits for its outstanding blend of hospitality and modern Southern luxury and amenities. The hotel boasts a full-service spa, a rooftop swimming pool, private cabanas for rental, a champagne and afternoon tea lounge, a rooftop bar, a patisserie, and Gabrielle restaurant with an outdoor dining terrace overlooking Marion Square.

For old-school Southern hospitality and stained wood accents, the Market Pavilion Hotel offers an outdoor pool and Grill 225, a steakhouse popular with LGBTQ+ carnivores.

An LGBTQ+ Travel Guide to Charleston, South Carolina provides valuable information for planning your next trip.

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